Why Am I Such a Stinker?

Does that have to be me?

Does that have to be me?

Sometimes I wonder about the role in which I have been cast on this website. There’s a certain sense that well, I don’t know, that I’m rather less than a friendly, happy, predictable, sane, sort of person, a fellow you might like to meet at your local watering hole, crotchfruit in tow, and with whom you could share a nicely chilled glass of over-oaked California chardonnay as we discuss real estate values, liberal politics, and the irrevocable decline of man.

Am I so angry? Am I so mean? In short—am I really such a stinker?

For those of you out there who actually know me in person, the answer is simple. Yes, I am.

A case in point in this blog post from the total fucking assholes fine folks over at Grist. It’s about why making school lunches healthier is an important social value, despite the cost, and even for folks with no children, or as those in the health biz like to put it, no skin in the game:

School lunches are our society’s most concrete, tangible way of transmitting foodways to rising generations. Sure, we pass on foodways in home kitchens and in our built infrastructure of restaurants/eateries, and well as through advertising; but those are in the private sphere. The public-school cafeteria is where we create a public vision of what the food system should be like. In short, it’s the public contribution to the formation of kids’ eating habits. And the eating habits we develop as kids largely determine the food choices we make as adults. If that weren’t true, the food industry wouldn’t be dropping $1.6 billion every year marketing to kids.

Foodways are an expression of habit. True, habits evolve and can be transformed. Most people who now populate the sustainable-food movement — including me — grew up eating bad school food, McDonald’s, TV dinners, etc. But habits also have tremendous momentum. The vast majority of people in my generation — I’m 44 — remain hooked on highly processed junk. In other words, they follow the societal norm with regard to food. And the school cafeteria helps establish that norm.

Foodways? Rising generations? Am I missing something—are we discussing tater tots or the anthropological mores of the Childus Suburbanicus?

Then, later in the post, the author does confront the issue of the relative lack of importance surrounding the topic of artisanal French Fries when compared with, say, Global Thermonuclear War:

The world is full of trouble; one has to choose one’s battles — and causes — carefully, to avoid being overwhelmed. But I want to make the case that everyone concerned about the future of the food system — with its vast influence over public health and climate stability — should care deeply about school lunches.

He has chosen his battle … and his battle is school lunches. Unfortunately, Jamie Oliver has beaten him to it, and with raffish Olde World charm to boot.

Not that he’s wrong, mind you. In fact, I tend to agree with practically everything mentioned above, minus the self-important, pseudo-journalistic tone. I want to like what’s he saying. It’s just that he’s irresistible.

It’s a sickness folks. Its name is the Internet. You have it, too.

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About Theodore

Theodore Ross is an editor of Harper’s Magazine. His writing has appeared in Harper’s, Saveur, Tin House, the Mississippi Review, and (of course), the Vietnam News. He grew up in New York City by way of Gulfport, MS, and as a teen played the evil Nazi, Toht, in Raiders of the Lost Ark: The Adaptation. He lives with his son, J.P. in Brooklyn, and is currently working on a book about Crypto-Jews.

2 thoughts on “Why Am I Such a Stinker?

  1. Cheers for that. I hate it when people get all postmodern about eating twinkies, and “foodways” is truly, truly over the top. The other thing we don’t seem to bring up in these discussions is that there is a nature component to how kids eat. From her birth, my daughter has treated green beans like drano–completely irrelevant and potentially poisonous. What do the foodways people make of that?

  2. No need to apologize. This academic anthropological crap is total bullshit. It just makes a group of ppl feel all enlightened and cultured. It also pads their wallets w/ big fellowships/speaking/teaching gig at name your big liberal arts school here. Do you think low income parents give a damn about foodpathways? Did a post a simillar point.
    http://j.mp/aNr3Ye

    no ur not alone nor a grouch

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