Adieu Abkhazia

On the beach at Gagra

My favorite response to my announced plans to spent the last two weeks in and around Abkhazia came from a guy I work with: “say hi to Borat for me.” It’s funny, of course, because Abkhazia is nowhere near the real place that the fake Borat supposedly came from. But it is a gentle reminder, which I often need, that people in the west neither know nor really care about small, damaged places like Abkhazia. I need that reminder because otherwise I find myself talking with a lot of excitement and spittle about those places in inappropriate venues, such as PTA meetups, cocktail parties, and meetings with editors.

The short version of Abkhazia, which I just came back from over the weekend, is that they won their war and then lost the peace. So they are de facto independent, yet shunned and struggling. It looks like the war, which ended in 1992, ended yesterday. There is very little work, abandoned homes are everywhere (many still with bullet holes pocking the plaster), and every man I asked about it said they have at least a handgun and an AK47 at home (some even have M16s looted from retreating Georgian troops in the Khodori Gorge in 2008).  All of that for a place that could actually be quite blessed, wedged between the warm Black Sea shore and green mountains with white peaks. It is like Cuba, as I told my wife after I got back, without the smiles.

I’ve got some ideas about who is to blame for their long troubles, but I’ll leave those for the article I’m writing about the place in a few weeks. For DadWagon, it seems most relevant to say that once again I am awed by the many seemingly terrible places where children manage to grow up and survive and sometimes even thrive.

There are, I’m sure, residual damages for the kids in Abkhazia. Twenty years after the end of the war, we heard time and again that the youngest generation was even more nationalist than the generation that had fought so savagely for independence. War doesn’t just wash off in a generation. And then there’s the poverty.  Everyone talked about the lack of jobs, the high drug use. Facilities are crap: A schoolhouse we visited in the ethnically Georgian southern district of Gal was half occupied and half abandoned. The teacher there said they needed textbooks, supplies, and more, that everything they had was donated from WorldVision and UNICEF.

But even that school was sending some students to college, either in the Abkhaz capital of Sukhum or in the nominal enemy’s capital, Tbilisi. And we met people who are smart and high-functioning even though they grew up not just in Abkhazia, but during the war, when irregulars on both sides were stringing the ears of their enemies onto necklaces.

I’m still jetlagged. I’ll write more about this later, I think, and post a few more pictures. But sometimes I think it’s all just a lark, this idea of parenting well. There are kids attending to my son’s $20k-a-year Montessori who are going to be extremely fucked up and malcontented adults. My son could be one of them. And there are kids who are growing up in the mossy squalor of some small Black Sea ethnic enclave who will grow up to be happy and successful. I don’t mean to trivialize the need to have access to clean water and security and safety. But once those barest minimums are covered, maybe the children are just going to be who they are going to be, and all our daily interventions and niggling corrections are just warring without purpose.

Cock-a-Doodle-Don’t, Part 2: ‘Girls Have Vaginas!’

Last Sunday night, Sasha was eating her dinner—noodles!—at the little coffee table in the living room, and I was sitting behind her, on the couch, in my underwear. (Yeah, I lounge around the house in my underwear. So?) All of a sudden, Sasha turned around and pointed at my crotch.

“What’s that?” she asked.

“What?”

“What’s in there?” she asked again—and poked me. There.

“Uh, that’s Daddy’s penis,” I said, figuring honesty was best.

“I have a penis too!” Sasha said.

“Well, no, you don’t.”

“I have a penis too! I have a penis too!” By now she was standing up and pulling down her undies and pointing at where, if she had one, her penis would be. “Look! Sasha has a penis too!”

“No, you don’t,” I said, helping her pull her undies. “You’re a girl. Girls have vaginas. Boys have penises. Girls have vaginas.”

“Girls have vaginas?” she asked.

“Mm-hm.”

Sasha turned back to her dinner and continued eating.

***

All week long, Jean has been away on a business trip, meaning I’m doing things I wouldn’t normally, like waking up early and taking the kid to school. On Wednesday morning, Sasha and I were beginning the tedious descent of the three flights of stairs in our building, when all of a sudden she stopped.

“Daddy,” she said, “girls have vaginas!”

“Oh?” I said. What else could I say?

She took a couple of steps down, then said: “Girls have vaginas!”

“I know,” I said. Why was she bringing this up now, a day and a half after our impromptu anatomy lesson?

“Girls have vaginas, Daddy!”

“That’s right.” Had she been mulling it over all this time, and only now understood it well enough to repeat it?

“Daddy! Daddy! Girls have vaginas!”

“Uh-huh.” Or had there been a lesson at school? Had she seen one of the boys peeing in the potty and been reminded of what I’d told her?

“Girls have vaginas! Girls have vaginas! Girls have vaginas! Girls have vaginas!”

***

Now, if I could, I’d insert a third anecdote here that would tie everything together, but it’s been almost a week and nothing more has happened. Sometimes life just works out that way.

But what I will mention here is Theodore’s reaction any time I tell him about this kind of thing. Here’s what he always says: “You’re going to jail, man! You’re going to jail!” Which is a funny enough response, but it’s also the response of a guy who, up till recently, has only had a son to deal with—and thus hasn’t had to face the question of difference. Which is, after all, a very natural question: Boys and girls look different, and at the toddler age, when they begin to notice, they’re going to ask why. You can answer in different ways, with different vocabulary, and it’s always uncomfortable to varying degrees (many of them hilarious degrees), but you’ve got to answer.

And so, Theodore, two years from now, when Ellie’s poking at your junk, and you’re facing the same awkward questions and responses, I will have myself a nice, long laugh at your expense. In my jail cell.

Parental Involvement in Schools: Not for Me!

Let’s for the moment drop all the pretense and admit that what we talk about when we talk about more parental involvement in our schools is not really more parental involvement in our schools but better schools with absolutely no more involvement than necessary—crazy stay-at-home parents excepted.

All of which is to say that if the volume of paperwork that I receive at home each day from JP’s kindergarten classes continues at this pace, I am going to take him out of school and send him to work on a farm in Alabama. I’m sure I can find one that will employ domestically born 5-year-olds.

Sheesh.

Maxing Out on Toddler Emotions

My kid, Sasha, is not a reticent girl. If she’s happy, she’ll shriek with laughter. If she’s even a touch upset, she’ll explode into tears. She is, of course, a toddler, so this is pretty much normal.

But every once in a while, her emotional circuits short out. Just yesterday, this happened twice. While wandering around Atlantic Antic, the mega street fair that descends on our neighborhood every year, we spotted a small booth doing face-painting—and Sasha was entranced. She patiently waited her turn, then quietly allowed her face to be painted, keeping her chin up when we asked and everything. By all rights, she should have been shouting and jumping when it was all done—and yet she was entirely somber. Unsmiling. Unreactive, almost.

It threw us, at first. Here she’d just realized a dream, and yet she couldn’t express her glee. It was only hours later, in front of a mirror at home, that she relaxed enough to smile and talk about the beautiful flowers adorning her face like some kind of “Yo Gabba Gabba!”–style tribal tattoo.

And then, again, shortly after that, we biked Sasha down to Jane’s Carousel, the gorgeous, century-old carousel recently re-installed on the Brooklyn waterfront. Sasha loves carousels, though she’s only been on them a few times. The horses, the colors, the music, the centrifugal force—these should make her howl with glee. But instead, she sat on the horse stone-faced. When I asked her if she liked the ride, which she’d approached with excitement, she said, “Uh-huh,” but that was it. Weird.

So, my question is: What’s going on here? Is this a normal thing for toddlers, to be so happy that they short-circuit? Or is it that the newness of the experience means that they simply don’t know how they’re supposed to react? A lot of that emotional stuff is, I know, taught and learned, which is why kids love to pantomime happy, sad, scared, and angry faces. Otherwise, how do they know what emotions are being expressed? But man, there’s got to be some cool brain-science stuff going on here—I just wish I know what it is.

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